Comments on Blue Guide Sicily
- 9th edition
- 8th edition
Sicily offers an enormous range of history: Greeks, Romans, Arabs and the Normans have all left their mark on a visually stunning landscape of volcanoes and vineyards.
Buy the book from blueguides.com here»
Read our articles about Sicily here.
- 22 Comment(s)
Your comment
Hungarian pioneer of hand-sanitisation
How many of us today, while methodically washing our hands in the hope of staving off Covid-19, think of Ignác Semmelweis? How many of us have even heard of him? Semmelweis (1818–65) is not widely known around the world but he is a familiar name in Hungary. Budapest's medical school is named after him and he has gone down in history as the ‘saviour of mothers’ because his pioneering methods saved many women and infants from death by puerperal fever. Semmelweis’ theories were revolutionary for his time. And now, his insistence on the importance of disinfection to halt the spread of contagion has been brought once again under the spotlight as we are once again reminded of its importance. Semmelweis was ahead of the curve in his grasp of the importance of hand-washing: his hunch was borne out by significant decreases in the rate of mortality on obstetric wards under his supervision. Despite this, his idea was rejected by the established medical community, who were offended by the suggestion that a patient's death could be imputed to the medical staff's personal hygiene. What made things more difficult for Semmelweis was the fact that he was a practitioner, not a scientist. His theory could be explained as a hunch that seemed to work but he had detected nothing through a microscope that could furnish scientific explanation and proof. He never gained the reputation he deserved during his lifetime. In fact he suffered some kind of mental and emotional breakdown and began lashing out in print at the ignorance and obstinacy of the medical fraternity. In the end he was transferred to an asylum in Vienna, a move supported by his wife, who was no longer able to cope with his tantrums. He died very shortly after his admission, perhaps as a result of ill-treatment.
Semmelweis’s former home in Budapest is now a museum of the history of medicine (described in full in Blue Guide Budapest). His theory, of course, is fully recognised today. Named after him is the phenomenon known as the Semmelweis reflex, the human tendency to reject or ridicule new ideas if they fly in the face of accepted convention.
‘The Global Eye’, running at the Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana in Florence until the end of May, is an exhibition devoted to the collection of Dutch, Spanish and Portuguese maps purchased by Cosimo III on his second journey to Holland in 1667–9 (before becoming grand-duke). A conference in November 2019, organised by the Dutch Institute in Florence, illustrated the close ties between the Dutch Republic and Cosimo III, who took a great interest in cross-cultural issues. The 82 maps (a selection of which are on view, accompanied by remarkable digital supports) represent many areas of the known world including parts of Japan, Africa, and even a unique plan dated around 1660 of ‘New Amsterdam’, when still part of the Dutch colony that a few years later was renamed New York, when the British took over. The maps were kept for a hundred years at the Villa di Castello on the outskirts of Florence, seat of the Accademia della Crusca (Cosimo III was an academician of the Crusca and their first dictionary, published in 1691, was dedicated to him in its 3rd edition). The villa itself is not generally open to the public but its garden is one of the most important of all those attached to Medici villas in the surroundings of Florence (and is fully described in Blue Guide Florence). The maps were moved for safety to the Biblioteca Laurenziana in 1921; this is the first time they have been fully studied and a catalogue raisonné provided. Visiting this fascinating small exhibition also gives you the chance to see (off the cloister of San Lorenzo) Michelangelo’s reading room with its famous vestibule, one of the most extraordinary architectural works in Florence.
by Alta Macadam, author of Blue Guide Florence.
‘The Global Eye’, running at the Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana in Florence until the end of May, is an exhibition devoted to the collection of Dutch, Spanish and Portuguese maps purchased by Cosimo III on his second journey to Holland in 1667–9 (before becoming grand-duke). A conference in November 2019, organised by the Dutch Institute in Florence, illustrated the close ties between the Dutch Republic and Cosimo III, who took a great interest in cross-cultural issues. The 82 maps (a selection of which are on view, accompanied by remarkable digital supports) represent many areas of the known world including parts of Japan, Africa, and even a unique plan dated around 1660 of ‘New Amsterdam’, when still part of the Dutch colony that a few years later was renamed New York, when the British took over. The maps were kept for a hundred years at the Villa di Castello on the outskirts of Florence, seat of the Accademia della Crusca (Cosimo III was an academician of the Crusca and their first dictionary, published in 1691, was dedicated to him in its 3rd edition). The villa itself is not generally open to the public but its garden is one of the most important of all those attached to Medici villas in the surroundings of Florence (and is fully described in Blue Guide Florence). The maps were moved for safety to the Biblioteca Laurenziana in 1921; this is the first time they have been fully studied and a catalogue raisonné provided. Visiting this fascinating small exhibition also gives you the chance to see (off the cloister of San Lorenzo) Michelangelo’s reading room with its famous vestibule, one of the most extraordinary architectural works in Florence.
by Alta Macadam, author of Blue Guide Florence.
‘The Global Eye’, running at the Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana in Florence until the end of May, is an exhibition devoted to the collection of Dutch, Spanish and Portuguese maps purchased by Cosimo III on his second journey to Holland in 1667–9 (before becoming grand-duke). A conference in November 2019, organised by the Dutch Institute in Florence, illustrated the close ties between the Dutch Republic and Cosimo III, who took a great interest in cross-cultural issues. The 82 maps (a selection of which are on view, accompanied by remarkable digital supports) represent many areas of the known world including parts of Japan, Africa, and even a unique plan dated around 1660 of ‘New Amsterdam’, when still part of the Dutch colony that a few years later was renamed New York, when the British took over. The maps were kept for a hundred years at the Villa di Castello on the outskirts of Florence, seat of the Accademia della Crusca (Cosimo III was an academician of the Crusca and their first dictionary, published in 1691, was dedicated to him in its 3rd edition). The villa itself is not generally open to the public but its garden is one of the most important of all those attached to Medici villas in the surroundings of Florence (and is fully described in Blue Guide Florence). The maps were moved for safety to the Biblioteca Laurenziana in 1921; this is the first time they have been fully studied and a catalogue raisonné provided. Visiting this fascinating small exhibition also gives you the chance to see (off the cloister of San Lorenzo) Michelangelo’s reading room with its famous vestibule, one of the most extraordinary architectural works in Florence.
by Alta Macadam, author of Blue Guide Florence.
‘The Global Eye’, running at the Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana in Florence until the end of May, is an exhibition devoted to the collection of Dutch, Spanish and Portuguese maps purchased by Cosimo III on his second journey to Holland in 1667–9 (before becoming grand-duke). A conference in November 2019, organised by the Dutch Institute in Florence, illustrated the close ties between the Dutch Republic and Cosimo III, who took a great interest in cross-cultural issues. The 82 maps (a selection of which are on view, accompanied by remarkable digital supports) represent many areas of the known world including parts of Japan, Africa, and even a unique plan dated around 1660 of ‘New Amsterdam’, when still part of the Dutch colony that a few years later was renamed New York, when the British took over. The maps were kept for a hundred years at the Villa di Castello on the outskirts of Florence, seat of the Accademia della Crusca (Cosimo III was an academician of the Crusca and their first dictionary, published in 1691, was dedicated to him in its 3rd edition). The villa itself is not generally open to the public but its garden is one of the most important of all those attached to Medici villas in the surroundings of Florence (and is fully described in Blue Guide Florence). The maps were moved for safety to the Biblioteca Laurenziana in 1921; this is the first time they have been fully studied and a catalogue raisonné provided. Visiting this fascinating small exhibition also gives you the chance to see (off the cloister of San Lorenzo) Michelangelo’s reading room with its famous vestibule, one of the most extraordinary architectural works in Florence.
by Alta Macadam, author of Blue Guide Florence.
With the closure today of the museums and monuments in all of Italy, those of us who visit them also for work are left wondering how such a thing could have happened in our lifetime. We suddenly find ourselves facing a drastic shortage of culture: no libraries, no theatre, no cinema. However, the very direct explanation by Prime Minister Conte late last night made it all too clear how necessary such measures have become in a country where the dreaded Coronavirus is suddenly holding us all hostage. There is no doubt that Italy has trusted leaders in Conte and President Mattarella, and the country’s medical profession are displaying all their dedication and efficiency. There is an evident preparedness in those in places of responsibility and a feeling of teamwork and pulling together in times of emergency. Millions of other Italians have merely been asked to stay at home for the time being. A measure which seems eminently sensible and which should not be a great sacrifice. Who knows how this forced restriction might even foster closer family relationships and make the homes themselves more comfortable. My garden will certainly enjoy greater attention. And with all the benefits of the internet, no one need feel cut off. There is even hope that the closure of museums and monuments will give those great institutions a chance for practicalities impossible when they are open all the time—even if only some radical cleaning, but also perhaps some reorganisation—an almost welcome pause to ‘stand back’ and contemplate themselves and their ‘mission’. I look of course on the rosy side of things, the side for those fortunate enough to have families and homes, but there is a very ugly side of this ‘shut down’, such as the situation in the overcrowded prisons, or that of people cut off from their families who are in hospitals or nursing homes, and the extremely dire economic consequences. This situation is making us all wonder about how we should live our lives in the future, about how long we can expect to enjoy ‘normal’ life in our global world.
For my involvement in the Blue Guides to Italy (Blue Guide Rome has just been published) it means I cannot set off for Venice and the Veneto for work on a volume coming up for revision: a restriction which has been imposed on me for the very first time by circumstances beyond my control (the only other time this happened to me was when I had to cut short a trip for Blue Guide Northern Italy when I was staying in Trieste the day of the terrible earthquake which hit the Friuli in 1976).
We can but hope the virus will soon be dominated with the help of everyone round the world and that we will soon return to a life as we know it, if greatly sobered by what has happened to us all.
Alta Macadam. Florence, 10th March 2020
With the closure today of the museums and monuments in all of Italy, those of us who visit them also for work are left wondering how such a thing could have happened in our lifetime. We suddenly find ourselves facing a drastic shortage of culture: no libraries, no theatre, no cinema. However, the very direct explanation by Prime Minister Conte late last night made it all too clear how necessary such measures have become in a country where the dreaded Coronavirus is suddenly holding us all hostage. There is no doubt that Italy has trusted leaders in Conte and President Mattarella, and the country’s medical profession are displaying all their dedication and efficiency. There is an evident preparedness in those in places of responsibility and a feeling of teamwork and pulling together in times of emergency. Millions of other Italians have merely been asked to stay at home for the time being. A measure which seems eminently sensible and which should not be a great sacrifice. Who knows how this forced restriction might even foster closer family relationships and make the homes themselves more comfortable. My garden will certainly enjoy greater attention. And with all the benefits of the internet, no one need feel cut off. There is even hope that the closure of museums and monuments will give those great institutions a chance for practicalities impossible when they are open all the time—even if only some radical cleaning, but also perhaps some reorganisation—an almost welcome pause to ‘stand back’ and contemplate themselves and their ‘mission’. I look of course on the rosy side of things, the side for those fortunate enough to have families and homes, but there is a very ugly side of this ‘shut down’, such as the situation in the overcrowded prisons, or that of people cut off from their families who are in hospitals or nursing homes, and the extremely dire economic consequences. This situation is making us all wonder about how we should live our lives in the future, about how long we can expect to enjoy ‘normal’ life in our global world.
For my involvement in the Blue Guides to Italy (Blue Guide Rome has just been published) it means I cannot set off for Venice and the Veneto for work on a volume coming up for revision: a restriction which has been imposed on me for the very first time by circumstances beyond my control (the only other time this happened to me was when I had to cut short a trip for Blue Guide Northern Italy when I was staying in Trieste the day of the terrible earthquake which hit the Friuli in 1976).
We can but hope the virus will soon be dominated with the help of everyone round the world and that we will soon return to a life as we know it, if greatly sobered by what has happened to us all.
Alta Macadam. Florence, 10th March 2020
With the closure today of the museums and monuments in all of Italy, those of us who visit them also for work are left wondering how such a thing could have happened in our lifetime. We suddenly find ourselves facing a drastic shortage of culture: no libraries, no theatre, no cinema. However, the very direct explanation by Prime Minister Conte late last night made it all too clear how necessary such measures have become in a country where the dreaded Coronavirus is suddenly holding us all hostage. There is no doubt that Italy has trusted leaders in Conte and President Mattarella, and the country’s medical profession are displaying all their dedication and efficiency. There is an evident preparedness in those in places of responsibility and a feeling of teamwork and pulling together in times of emergency. Millions of other Italians have merely been asked to stay at home for the time being. A measure which seems eminently sensible and which should not be a great sacrifice. Who knows how this forced restriction might even foster closer family relationships and make the homes themselves more comfortable. My garden will certainly enjoy greater attention. And with all the benefits of the internet, no one need feel cut off. There is even hope that the closure of museums and monuments will give those great institutions a chance for practicalities impossible when they are open all the time—even if only some radical cleaning, but also perhaps some reorganisation—an almost welcome pause to ‘stand back’ and contemplate themselves and their ‘mission’. I look of course on the rosy side of things, the side for those fortunate enough to have families and homes, but there is a very ugly side of this ‘shut down’, such as the situation in the overcrowded prisons, or that of people cut off from their families who are in hospitals or nursing homes, and the extremely dire economic consequences. This situation is making us all wonder about how we should live our lives in the future, about how long we can expect to enjoy ‘normal’ life in our global world. For my involvement in the Blue Guides to Italy (Blue Guide Rome has just been published) it means I cannot set off for Venice and the Veneto for work on a volume coming up for revision: a restriction which has been imposed on me for the very first time by circumstances beyond my control (the only other time this happened to me was when I had to cut short a trip for Blue Guide Northern Italy when I was staying in Trieste the day of the terrible earthquake which hit the Friuli in 1976). We can but hope the virus will soon be dominated with the help of everyone round the world and that we will soon return to a life as we know it, if greatly sobered by what has happened to us all. Alta Macadam. Florence, 10th March 2020
With the closure today of the museums and monuments in all of Italy, those of us who visit them also for work are left wondering how such a thing could have happened in our lifetime. We suddenly find ourselves facing a drastic shortage of culture: no libraries, no theatre, no cinema. However, the very direct explanation by Prime Minister Conte late last night made it all too clear how necessary such measures have become in a country where the dreaded Coronavirus is suddenly holding us all hostage. There is no doubt that Italy has trusted leaders in Conte and President Mattarella, and the country’s medical profession are displaying all their dedication and efficiency. There is an evident preparedness in those in places of responsibility and a feeling of teamwork and pulling together in times of emergency. Millions of other Italians have merely been asked to stay at home for the time being. A measure which seems eminently sensible and which should not be a great sacrifice. Who knows how this forced restriction might even foster closer family relationships and make the homes themselves more comfortable. My garden will certainly enjoy greater attention. And with all the benefits of the internet, no one need feel cut off. There is even hope that the closure of museums and monuments will give those great institutions a chance for practicalities impossible when they are open all the time—even if only some radical cleaning, but also perhaps some reorganisation—an almost welcome pause to ‘stand back’ and contemplate themselves and their ‘mission’. I look of course on the rosy side of things, the side for those fortunate enough to have families and homes, but there is a very ugly side of this ‘shut down’, such as the situation in the overcrowded prisons, or that of people cut off from their families who are in hospitals or nursing homes, and the extremely dire economic consequences. This situation is making us all wonder about how we should live our lives in the future, about how long we can expect to enjoy ‘normal’ life in our global world. For my involvement in the Blue Guides to Italy ("Blue Guide Rome" has just been published) it means I cannot set off for Venice and the Veneto for work on a volume coming up for revision: a restriction which has been imposed on me for the very first time by circumstances beyond my control (the only other time this happened to me was when I had to cut short a trip for "Blue Guide Northern Italy" when I was staying in Trieste the day of the terrible earthquake which hit the Friuli in 1976). We can but hope the virus will soon be dominated with the help of everyone round the world and that we will soon return to a life as we know it, if greatly sobered by what has happened to us all. Alta Macadam. Florence, 10th March 2020
With the closure today of the museums and monuments in all of Italy, those of us who visit them also for work are left wondering how such a thing could have happened in our lifetime. We suddenly find ourselves facing a drastic shortage of culture: no libraries, no theatre, no cinema. However, the very direct explanation by Prime Minister Conte late last night made it all too clear how necessary such measures have become in a country where the dreaded Coronavirus is suddenly holding us all hostage. There is no doubt that Italy has trusted leaders in Conte and President Mattarella, and the country’s medical profession are displaying all their dedication and efficiency. There is an evident preparedness in those in places of responsibility and a feeling of teamwork and pulling together in times of emergency. Millions of other Italians have merely been asked to stay at home for the time being. A measure which seems eminently sensible and which should not be a great sacrifice. Who knows how this forced restriction might even foster closer family relationships and make the homes themselves more comfortable. My garden will certainly enjoy greater attention. And with all the benefits of the internet, no one need feel cut off. There is even hope that the closure of museums and monuments will give those great institutions a chance for practicalities impossible when they are open all the time—even if only some radical cleaning, but also perhaps some reorganisation—an almost welcome pause to ‘stand back’ and contemplate themselves and their ‘mission’. I look of course on the rosy side of things, the side for those fortunate enough to have families and homes, but there is a very ugly side of this ‘shut down’, such as the situation in the overcrowded prisons, or that of people cut off from their families who are in hospitals or nursing homes, and the extremely dire economic consequences. This situation is making us all wonder about how we should live our lives in the future, about how long we can expect to enjoy ‘normal’ life in our global world. For my involvement in the Blue Guides to Italy ("Blue Guide Rome" has just been published) it means I cannot set off for Venice and the Veneto for work on a volume coming up for revision: a restriction which has been imposed on me for the very first time by circumstances beyond my control (the only other time this happened to me was when I had to cut short a trip for "Blue Guide Northern Italy" when I was staying in Trieste the day of the terrible earthquake which hit the Friuli in 1976). We can but hope the virus will soon be dominated with the help of everyone round the world and that we will soon return to a life as we know it, if greatly sobered by what has happened to us all. Alta Macadam. Florence, 10th March 2020
Comment
Hi
This is the second consecutive year we've been on holiday to Sicily. And Blue Guide Sicily has been our inseparable companion on both occasions. Its value as a cultural guide far outweighs the few grams it is heavier than other guides!
Sicily is absolutely dripping with history so it is great to have a guide which reaches below the surface both historically and culturally to set the scene before travelling and then really enhances sight-seeing during visits. On both occasions we followed closely several of the walking journeys through cities and towns described in the guide, this year the Ortigia walk in Syracuse being the best. As well as visually admiring the buildings we had some really interesting historical background painted in by the guide. And an accommodation recommendation was absolutely on the button! In such a 24/7 exuberant country it is wonderful to have a haven of peace to return to after a busy day knowing that we'll get a good night's sleep ahead of launching out on a further day of discovery.
Lipari
We learned the hard way not to pre-book the ferry to Lipari when our trains got us to Milazzo 100 mins late.
It will be really helpful to have the tourist office marked on your map. I appreciate that it may have moved addresses in recent times as suggested by our search. We only came across it by chance on our last day hidden, unsigned (and closed!) in a side road between Via Garibaldi and Corso Vittoro Emanuele.
In fact Lipari was generally poor on signage. An example being that our planned walk to the top of Sant'Angelo ("superb views": BG) was messed up because, having got off the bus, we weren't able to find the path leading us towards the mountain.
cf Salina who should be given a really good press for their welcome and the very helpful, friendly walk recommendation given by their great little tourist office set just above the harbour area. This resulted in a scenic bus journey followed by a great walk, and great views, up to the top of the Fossa delle Felci (watch out for the wasps!).
Taormina
I have to say that we were practically the only visitors of several thousand carrying a guide book of any description. Given that presumably most of the year the Corso Umberto is swamped with tourists it is great to emphasize for BG carrying visitors where they can find the three oases of calm identified in the BG. Number one: I would make more of the lovely little gardens and wonderful sculptures around the Palazzo Duchi di Santo Stefano (p 459). Number two is the walk up to the Madonna Della Rocca (what a wonderful little church in the rocks!) and the Castello - unfortunately closed when we arrived. And number three are the public gardens which are really lovely.
Covers the topic very thoroughly [Amazon review]
I always find the ‘Blue Guides’ excellent. Very informative and easy to use.
Great and Informative. [Amazon review]
I used an old edition of this years ago. Nice to have an updated copy! The book is very informative with lots of valuable history of the country and concise info on where and what to see.
Comment
Hello. I value the Blue Guide to Sicily. It's the best guide for the island. I've traveled there many times in the last decade and I now live there three months of the year. For my latest trip, I purchased the new Blue Guide to Sicily. I have a few observations.
On Page 392-3, Feudo Bauly is said to be run by the Corsino family that has the wonderful Pasticceria Corsino in Palazzolo Acreide. Actually, Feudo Bauly is run by the Corsino family that owns the excellent Macelleria Corsino in Palazzolo Acreide. They are not related to the Corsinos of the pasticceria.
Café des Amis in Piazza Armerina, on Page 304, has been sold and is now closed to undergo renovations. So, we have no idea what the new Café des Amis will be like and whether it will still be popular.
For the traveller who wants to know EVERYTHING about Sicily [Amazon review]
The Blue Guide tradition of giving full information is capably upheld in the volume about Sicly. This is perfect when you need to know all about an archeological site. I bought this book for a short trip to the island and I found it perfect for learning all the details I crave. I recommend the e- book edition on a Kindle or tablet to avoid lugging around a weighty tome.
Comment
Hello
A few entries need to be updated in Blue Guide Sicily.
Avola - Cafe Finocchiaro is listed as one of the most famous in Italy and we drove a 100km to reach Avola. To our surprise found that the cafe has been closed since a few years.
Cava Grande di Cassibile- the entry for Cava Grande is excellent and we wouldn't have found it if not for the Blue Guide. However, the directions to reach could be better as the signage on the actual road is very poor. Maybe include a small map.
La Foglia in Syracuse - we went to this restaurant on Blue Guide's recommendation and I should say it has been the best meal so far in Sicily. Thanks. We have also been to Don Camillo. It is good but La Foglia is better.
Il Borghetto in Taormina - We went to this restaurant in Taormina again based on Blue Guide's recommendation. It is in a piazza that doesn't see much crowd but for the excellent quality of food and service this place deserves a much larger crowd. Thanks for the recommendation.
Blue Guide Sicily is how I wanted a Guide book to be with enough historical sketches, background information and good solid practical information. A few more pictures would be good, but then the book will probably become too unwieldy.
Sicily 2015
To Whom It May Concern: My spouse and I recently made a trip to Sicily, Malta, and Calabria, and spent the majority of our time in Sicily (mid-October into early November). We used Ellen Grady's Blue Guide - Sicily (8th edition, 2012) extensive because of its focus - as is the case with all Blue Guides - on art, architecture, and history. Here are a few practical comments relating to lodgings: 1) Ragusa: The Hotel Rafael, which we had decided had the location and price range suitable for us, no longer exists. It is now a refugee shelter 2) Piazza Armerina: A real find, though we did not stay there (we took a tour by the very gracious owner) is the Suite d'Autore, Via Monte, 1, at the corner of the Piazza Duomo. This is a combination gallery and hotel. Prices are very reasonable (60 - 80 euro/night, double, with breakfast). Each room is beautifully, and intelligently decorated in the spirit of an art movement. It is worth checking it out, and we think, listing it in a future edition of the Blue Guide. 3) Piazza Armerina: We stayed at B&B 33, which is near Del Centro, which is the B&B listed in the guide. Checking out Del Centro, I was distinctly unimpressed. The nearby B&B 33 (which is on Umberto 33) we stumbled upon and stayed at. It is run by a early middle-aged couple. Rooms are comfortable and on the top floor is a modern kitchen with a fabulous view out over the historic center. The husband owns a nearby wine shop selling local wines and olive oils and generously invites one to taste everything. The breakfast spread was absolutely wonderful, including locally made ricotta cheese, lots of coffee, fresh cornetti, and much, much more. Altogether a wonderful experience. 4) Mazara del Vallo: We used the Blue Guide recommendation for lodging in Mazara del Vallo (a B&B in the renovated old railroad station). The son of the owner recommended a simple trattoria not too far away run by a friend, and it turned out the best simple meal we had on the whole trip. The name is Trattoria Da Giacomo - we shared a sublime pasta (bucatini) dish with a sauce made of local ingredients (including an unusual fish roe) and then shared a roasted chicken. With a half liter of house wine, the entire bill came to 20 euros. It was the real "find" of our entire trip. I hope this feedback will help for a future edition of this title in the Blue Guide series.
Blue Guide Sicily review
From a reader in Australia: I have been meaning to write to you ever since I got back from my latest trip to Sicily in mid-July. I used your guide to Sicily on this trip and was mostly very happy with it. Having spent 3.5 months there last year, this time (another month June-July) I really wanted a guidebook that gave more in-depth info and the Blue Guide did that. Overall it was excellent and I was very happy with my purchase. I am interested in Italian history, art and architecture as well as food and wine and I found the guide very informative. A friend of mine who lives in Sicily (in Alia) was particularly impressed with your historical overview. He said it put things into better perspective than a lot of things he had read and answered a lot of questions he’d had about how things tied together historically. And I have to say we were impressed that Alia and Roccapalumba appeared in the guide at all! I am taking you at your word (where you say you welcome suggestions etc): In terms of suggestions for improvement I would have liked your dining and accommodation tips to come closer to the actual place rather than having everything for one provincia at the end of a rather large section. I actually thought your guide didn’t have that info for some time because it was so far away from where I was looking. I did find two things that I think were incorrect. For Ustica on p 107 it says the Torre Santa Maria is the archaeological museum. The museum is now in town at the old prisoner’s barracks (which has the big fosso they used to put prisoners in for solitary confinement). Sorry I don’t know the street name as I never really found a decent map of the town but if heading uphill up the main piazza it’s off to the right just past the little park area. Just go to the end as it’s on the edge of the cliff (spectacular views). The Crai supermarket is down an alley to the right as you go. And the Cantine Florio in Marsala (pp 152-153) charges 20 euro for the guided tour and degustation but it was worth every centesimo. (Your info appears to indicate that it’s free.) They have an excellent showroom where you can buy gift packs of their wines at reasonable prices. Palazzo Chiaramonte-Steri (p43) seems to be visitable only with guided tours but when I went in July there was no need to book. You just turned up. Tours in languages other than English or Italian might be problematic. The guides were students of the uni and it cost 5 euro. They took me by myself AND didn’t close for lunch. Fantastic value. BTW I’m not sure if you have mentioned this somewhere but it might be worth mentioning that in Sicily regardless of what their advertised hours are - on signs outside museums, on their websites etc - things can always change! Not to mention that no-one ever has change so keep a large supply of coins. Some other things: Alia has an agriturismo called Al Lago Verde. The main business is the restaurant which is excellent but they also have rooms. I haven’t stayed there but have eaten there a number of times. The food is terrific but the owner’s wife is famous for over-charging and they don’t bring an itemised bill so you need to keep track of what you’ve been eating and what it costs. The husband is lovely. The prices for the quality and quantity of food are very reasonable. Their mixed antipasto is delicious, very different from the stereotypical antipasti and practically a meal in itself. They have a lot of meat dishes but also pizza. There is also a good pizzeria in Alia itself – Sutta le Archi – just off the main drag in Via Archi. But it should be avoided at all costs on Friday and Saturday nights as it’s packed with a zillion young people and it takes hours (literally) to be served. Apparently if a takeaway order comes in for the same type of pizza you’ve ordered they’ll sell it to the takeaway person! But at quieter times and at lunchtime it’s good. Again they might overcharge foreigners but it’s very reasonably priced and the pizzas and other food are good. Not haute cuisine though. Not sure if you prefer to feature more fine-dining places? [No--we like to feature a range of places. Ed.] Alia’s Bar Centrale has been on TV as having the cheapest coffee in Italy. 20c for an espresso. Il Granaio in Roccapalumba is also good. But these last two (Sutta le Archi and Granaio) can’t compare with Lago Verde and come nowhere near Vin Vito and Giardino delle Aloe (below). They’re just good-value, good trattorie. I can also highly recommend Osteria Vin Vito in Castellana Sicula – superb. Everything was wonderful but the tronchetto dessert (regional specialty – ricotta pastry thing) was divine and the caponata was the best I’ve ever had. Favignana – Il GIardino delle Aloe – spectacular food in a lovely garden setting. They also have rooms. You can buy half-pension plans from some hotels on the island (I stayed at Villaggio l’Oasi) and eat at various restaurants on the list for 25 euro a night. Amazing value. Castellamare del Golfo – Egesta Mare was excellent. And Caccamo’s A Castellana, in the dungeons of the castle, is reliable, extensive menu and very reasonably-priced. Sciacca – at the port, the trattoria Ristorante Italia da Nino. Despite the unprepossessing name, really good seafood. And if it lasts, the tiny slow food-type place in Ustica, Carruba e Cannella. Via Tre Mulini. Just a few tables. Run by a young couple with just a few dishes but superb. Most of it organic. They do take-away too. Food is sold by weight. Their apple caponata (Palermitan specialty) is delicious. Oh yes, the best cannoli on the planet are from the hole-in-the-wall Pasticceria d'Ambra in Lipari.
Carravagio in Messina
Dear Sir/Madam, I am writing to you in order to inform about an information that I think is wrong. I have recently purchased a copy of the eighth edition (2012) of Blue Guide Sicily. I usually double-check the information with internet sites and I think there is a mistake in the book. Here are the details: in page number 432, talking about the masterpieces by Caravaggio hold in the Museo Regionale of Messina, according to the book, they are: Nativity and The Raising of Lazarus. As you can check in this web (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nativity_with_St._Francis_and_St._Lawrence), Nativity was stolen in 1969 in Palermo and remains lost. However, this web: http://www.regione.sicilia.it/beniculturali/dirbenicult/database/page_musei/pagina_musei.asp?id=5&idsito=43, informs that the painting hold in Messina is Adorazione dei pastori. The information is confirmed here: http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adorazione_dei_pastori_(Caravaggio). Nevertheless, the rest of the information given by the guide about the history of the painting (commissioned by the Senate of Messina for the Capuchin church) is right, as well as the other masterpiece, The Raising of Lazarus. I hope this information is helpfull for you, and I would like to congratulate you for this excelent guide. Yours faithfully,
Comments on Blu eGuide Sicily
Hello. I have been meaning to write to you ever since I got back from my latest trip to Sicily in mid-July. I used your guide to Sicily on this trip and was mostly very happy with it. Having spent 3.5 months there last year, this time (another month June-July) I really wanted a guidebook that gave more in-depth info and the Blue Guide did that. Overall it was excellent and I was very happy with my purchase. I am interested in Italian history, art and architecture as well as food and wine and I found the guide very informative. A friend of mine who lives in Sicily (in Alia) was particularly impressed with your historical overview. He said it put things into better perspective than a lot of things he had read and answered a lot of questions he’d had about how things tied together historically. And I have to say we were impressed that Alia and Roccapalumba appeared in the guide at all! I am taking you at your word (where you say you welcome suggestions etc): In terms of suggestions for improvement I would have liked your dining and accommodation tips to come closer to the actual place rather than having everything for one provincia at the end of a rather large section. E.g. The Rough Guide, though far from as detailed as the Blue Guide, has the info at the end of the historical and sight-seeing info for each place and personally I find that more user-friendly. I actually thought your guide didn’t have that info for some time because it was so far away from where I was looking. I did find two things that I think were incorrect. For Ustica on p 107 it says the Torre Santa Maria is the archaeological museum. The museum is now in town at the old prisoner’s barracks (which has the big fosso they used to put prisoners in for solitary confinement). Sorry I don’t know the street name as I never really found a decent map of the town but if heading uphill up the main piazza it’s off to the right just past the little park area. Just go to the end as it’s on the edge of the cliff (spectacular views). The Crai supermarket is down an alley to the right as you go. And the Cantine Florio in Marsala (pp 152-153) charges 20 euro for the guided tour and degustation but it was worth every centesimo. (Your info appears to indicate that it’s free.) They have an excellent showroom where you can buy gift packs of their wines at reasonable prices. Palazzo Chiaramonte-Steri (p43) seems to be vistable only with guided tours but when I went in July there was no need to book. You just turned up. Tours in languages other than English or Italian might be problematic. The guides were students of the uni and it cost 5 euro. They took me by myself AND didn’t close for lunch. Fantastic value. BTW I’m not sure if you have mentioned this somewhere but it might be worth mentioning that in Sicily regardless of what their advertised hours are - on signs outside museums, on their websites etc - things can always change! Not to mention that no-one ever has change so keep a large supply of coins. Some other things: Alia has an agriturismo called Al Lago Verde. The main business is the restaurant which is excellent but they also have rooms. I haven’t stayed there but have eaten there a number of times. The food is terrific but the owner’s wife is famous for over-charging and they don’t bring an itemised bill so you need to keep track of what you’ve been eating and what it costs. The husband is lovely. The prices for the quality and quantity of food are very reasonable. Their mixed antipasto is delicious, very different from the stereotypical antipasti and practically a meal in itself. They have a lot of meat dishes but also pizza. There is also a good pizzeria in Alia itself – Sutta le Archi – just off the main drag in Via Archi. But it should be avoided at all costs on Friday and Saturday nights as it’s packed with a zillion young people and it takes hours (literally) to be served. Apparently if a takeaway order comes in for the same type of pizza you’ve ordered they’ll sell it to the takeaway person! But at quieter times and at lunchtime it’s good. Again they might overcharge foreigners but it’s very reasonably priced and the pizzas and other food are good. Not haute cuisine though. Not sure if you prefer to feature more fine-dining places? Alia’s Bar Centrale has been on TV as having the cheapest coffee in Italy. 20c for an espresso. Il Granaio in Roccapalumba is also good. But these last two (Sutta le Archi and Granaio) can’t compare with Lago Verde and come nowhere near Vin Vito and Giardino delle Aloe (below). They’re just good-value, good trattorie. I can also highly recommend Osteria Vin Vito in Castellana Sicula – superb. Everything was wonderful but the tronchetto dessert (regional specialty – ricotta pastry thing) was divine and the caponata was the best I’ve ever had. Favignana – Il GIardino delle Aloe – spectacular food in a lovely garden setting. They also have rooms. You can buy half-pension plans from some hotels on the island (I stayed at Villaggio l’Oasi) and eat at various restaurants on the list for 25 euro a night. Amazing value. Castellamare del Golfo – Egesta Mare was excellent. And Caccamo’s A Castellana, in the dungeons of the castle, is reliable, extensive menu and very reasonably-priced. Sciacca – at the port, the trattoria Ristorante Italia da Nino. Despite the unprepossessing name, really good seafood. And if it lasts, the tiny slow food-type place in Ustica, Carruba e Cannella. Via Tre Mulini. Just a few tables. Run by a young couple with just a few dishes but superb. Most of it organic . They do take-away too. Food is sold by weight. Their apple caponata (Palermitan specialty) is delicious. Oh yes, best cannoli on the planet are from the hole-in-the-wall Pasticceria d’Ambra in Lipari. Hope you don’t mind my raving on. I hope some of it might be useful.
Sicily p.386 Teatro Massimo Bellini
Dear Blue Guide Editors, I have been a great Blue Guide fan for years, am much enjoying the 2012 edition on my current trip to Sicily, my ninth, and greatly look forward to using the India edition this winter. P.386 of the Sicily edition, however, says the Teatro Massimo Bellini opened with the premiere if Bellini's "Norma" in 1890. But "Norma" had its premiere elsewhere in 1831. (Maybe this was the Catania premiere, but that's not the same thing.) I don't ever remember spotting an error in a Blue Guide before, and record my gratitude for your guides to many cities and regions in several different countries.
comment
Sicily Tours
Looking forward to the new edition of the Blue Guide Sicily. I’m sure the revising editor Michael Metcalfe has turned in a great tome. It will stand pride of place alongside our copy of the Blue Guide to the Aegean Islands which is simply fabulous.
comment
Palermo - Palazzo Marchesi Ugo delle Favare. Just talked with them: they have not rented apartments in many years. The phone number listed is their private number.
question
do you have a blue guide for Palermo or, if not, will you have one in the future…
if not, can you recommend one of yours
and/or someone else’s…
thank you
comment
La Cirasella (farmhouse accomodation in Province of Catania) on page 435. The web site address in the book is incorrect. It should be: http://www.cirasellaetna.com Please correct this error. This is a wonderful place to stay–gracious hosts, peaceful setting, delicious meals.
comment
Few errors: addresses, open hours, etc. The most important: Convento dei Cappuccini (p.69) is NOT at 1 Via Cappuccine, it is at 1 Piazza Cappuccine! Besides, I would not name the article “Convento etc.” I would recommend to name it clearly and explicitly: Cattacombe dei Cappuccini.
comment
My wife and I are long-time enthusiasts of the Blue Guide series, having carried several volumes to Italy in the early eighties, but it was not until this month that we had the opportunity to experience the Guide in its new incarnation during our travels in Sicily. Of the many volumes we had in hand, the Blue Guide towered above all. The beautifully written narrative of Ellen Grady was seasoned with the wit and perception, and it seemed possible to inhabit an earlier world of Goethe and Lawrence when viewed through her eyes. Restaurant and hotel recommendations–new to us in the series– were not only welcome but well-chosen, as were the appendices dedicated to wine and food. We particularly enjoyed the beautiful color photographs–printed on high quality paper stock– taken by Giaccomo Mazza–especially those that departed from conventional travel guide fare and showed almost abstract landscapes in a profusion of colors.
We are delighted that the Blue Guide series is better now than it has ever been before. We look forward to traveling with you in the years ahead!
comment
Hi there. Just returned from my second trip to Sicily using the Blue Guide as our main reference. We took the guide’s advice on L’Arco in Modica and it was truly awful. The wine was almost undrinkable, the antipasto and pasta by far the worst we had anywhere in Sicily. The charm of not having a written menu was lost when we were charged 30 euro for a dud meal, significantly more than we had paid for vastly superior food elsewhere. One place worth including for Modica is Osteria dei Sapori Perduti, on Corso Umberto, very reasonably priced authentic and flavoursome rustic local food. Phone 0932944247. We have been about five times over two different trips and it is great - the same staff in the past couple of years, very busy and full of locals.
comment
We just returned from our trip to Sicilia which was, as predicted by your unnamed author, wonderful. The Blue Guide proved to be indispensable and fantastic! We traveled with several, “Lonely Planet”, Touring Club of Italy’s “Authentic Sicily” to name a couple, but the Blue Guide is far and away the best!
comment
“La Finestra sul Sale” is a great place to stay, but beware that the cafe/restaurant downstairs turns into a nightclub with loud music (either DJ or live), from thursday through sunday - don’t expect to be able to sleep until 1:30 am, as this area is directly below the rooms.
comment
Sorry, bad news. The Resort was forced to close because Isola Longa is part of a wildlife protected area, which does not foresee accommodation for visitors, even on such a Spartan basis. It is a shame, because I loved it. However, the same company are still running their B&B in the saltmill Ettore e Infersa, see http://www.salineettoreinfersa.com, La Finestra sul Sale, which is stunning. If they go there, they will be able to sympathise with the charming lady who wanted to launch the project, something entirely new for Sicily.
comment